Surf on the Cheap in Nayarit
December 8th, 2008
Just north of Puerto Vallarta is a surfer-friendly, wallet-conscious oasis with none of the crowds—or cheesiness—of its more famous neighbor.
Where to Eat
Two year-old Marplata is sleepy San Pancho’s best restaurant. Named after the riverfront Argentine city, Marplata’s Pan-Euro/Latino menu is courtesy of Belgian chef Amandine Darmstaedter, a longtime Mexico vet. There are both indoor and alfresco dining rooms, a sizable wine menu (strong on New World vintages) and house specials like red-snapper tartare.
Surfer dude Mark Holt and his wife opened the tiny taco joint Sayulita Fish Taco (just off Sayulita’s main plaza) in 2001. Holt serves “Baja”-style tacos: soft tortillas, shredded cabbage, flame-grilled or beer-battered mahimahi, and even mango salsa. There are also hearty burritos and fajitas and a kids’ menu of Chihuahuas in a blanket, mini-spaghetti, and quesadillas.
La Laguna was one of the first regional restaurants to open up in Nuevo Vallarta, the resort community just across the Nayarit border from Puerto Vallarta. Set on a lagoon, the restaurant offers waterfront views and a menu filled with most underwater life.
Skip dinner and go straight for dessert, like a chocolate and raspberry heart; martini and three-chocolate mousse; or Moka tarte, at the Café des Artistes del Mar, which opened in 2007 on a waterfront dock on the Punta de Mita peninsula.
What to Do
Ten years ago, surfers came to Sayulita to escape the hordes at Puerto Vallarta. Now you can escape Sayulita at next-door San Pancho, a worthy, and far less crowded, rival. Bring your own boards or rent gear from the San Pancho Surf Shop (American Latina, 3; 52-311-258-4312), where manager Alonzo Hernandez will guide you to the day’s best waves, typically found along Chacala and LaLancha beaches.
When you’re ready to reengage, return to Sayulita and its unexpectedly compelling fashion scene. Its sartorial HQ is Pachamama, whose French surfer-sister owners stock sexy snakeskin skirts, colorful, hand-embroidered Mexican dresses, braided leather purses, and delicate beaded cuffs. Get a bikini from Brazil, Argentina, or Columbia at Yemaya, owned by American interior designer Hana Waxman. (There are also beach dresses and cover-ups for the less toned.) For something a bit more local, La Hamaca (110 Avda. Revolución; 52-322-227-5817) offers traditional masks, pottery, artwork, and hammocks sourced from Indian villages throughout Mexico and Guatemala.
Escape again with a ride through the treetops on a rainforest canopy tour. Embrace your inner Tarzan as you hop from treetop to treetop some 90 feet above the forest floor (safely, of course) attached to harnesses and a zip wire. Half-day (four and a half hours) excursions are $79 for adults and $53 for kids between 8 and 12.
Insider’s Tip
Polo Season in Nayarit—as well as the nearby Costa Careyes down the coast—began in November, and the equine action takes place through May at the jungle-shrouded Polo Court at the Rancho La Patrona in San Pancho. Check the calendar for Saturday match times, but daily morning practices are equally exciting to watch.
Oddball Day
The tiny man-made island of Mexcaltitan is, legend has it, the starting point of the Aztecs epic 300-year, 700-mile trek to the eventual capital of Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City. Today, this thousand-year-old hamlet populated by about 2,000 people, is a peek into a Mexico long lost to colonialism and modernity. Embark on the twenty-minute boat trip from the port at San Blas, a small Nayarit mainland town just north of Sayulita. Visit the museum to catch up on 4,000 years of ancient Mexican history and walk the plaza with its elegant cathedral and city hall. Snack at any of the tiny taco stands scattered all over the island.



